Evolution of Jacquemus - Part 3

The season that truly gave Jacquemus the flowers they have today has to be the Spring 2018 collection. Debuted in Paris Fashion Week, the reviews and influence of this season are still prominent today. The aesthetic of this show will always be memorable, and a personal favorite.

This collection was a moment. Presented in the Musée Picasso, Jacquemus showed both fluid and structured designs. While the structural pieces were an ode to the brand’s past, and its long history of construction and shapes, the fluid pieces were an ode to the brand's future. A new wave of sheer and feminine arrangements that compliment both the woman and the label. Together this collection has proved to be a full circle moment for Jacquemus, providing a balanced combination of who we used to know and who we now love.

All together, the collection was soft and affectionate. The patterns, shapes, and materials fit the diverse casting in the best way, allowing everyone to see themselves in every color and design. Seeing yourself in a design, no matter how wild or simple, is my favorite way to decide whether a brand is for me. I feel as though this was the turning point of Jacquemus’ aesthetic and influence. The pieces had a strong connection to his country; he made every woman see themselves in France without actually being in France.

The final aspect that truly tied this remarkable show together was the accessorization. This collection's range of accessories supported the brand's breakout moment. Jacquemus extended his renowned minimalist approach to a myriad of featured accessories, including earrings, necklaces, heels, straw hats, headwraps, and purses. Because of them, the designs were more than just garments put together. He provided looks. I feel like that is the peak of minimalism: being able to express so much, with so little. And based on the size of the accessories, they were very little.

One of the biggest styles we’ve seen, derived from the man himself, was the itty bitty Le Chiquito bag. I’ve seen every top influencer and celebrities wear the Le Chiquito bag and seen every fast fashion website make replicas of their own. Spilling into the high fashion runway, many other major brands have begun to take their own spin on the trendy bag’s size and style. This trend-turned-meme integrated the fashion world with the internet humor in the most hilarious way. As attention was drawn to the bag, it gave Jacquemus an opportunity to explain its creation and purpose; drawing further spotlight to the brand. Following the bags’ introduction to the world, the many versions of the white Bahia dress that was showcased on the runway has also been worn in every way by just about everyone important, with of course fast fashion making replicas of its own. While some may hate fast fashion replicas, I believe that is a sign your work is admired--not just noticed, but influential.

Since this show’s debut, the location, designs and aesthetics have progressed positively. (The Spring 2020 show was literally in a lavender field!) He has even gone on to make a mens collection, showcasing the same French aesthetic. The reviews have been praised positively, with L’Homme Jacquemus now being anticipated during Mens Fashion Week. Its most recent show featured Laetitia Casta, both the Hadid sisters, Adut Aketch and Doutzen Kroes. Veteran and newer supermodels came together to present a collection dedicated to his mother in the grandest way, during the most grand season of fashion week, signifying yet another accolade of the brand’s recognition in the industry.

I believe the strength in who models, attends and supports is huge in determining success. While there are many overrated designers today, they’ve all received their success at their peak, and although I’m proudly biased towards this brand, I do believe Jacqumeus is at his peak. France has progressively been incorporated in his work while successfully endorsing his success. With this background, I believe the imitation of his life by his art has made the public’s connection to his designs stronger, and makes his work more authentic.

What Jacquemus represents in the fashion industry to me is growth, time and work. There's always a way and plan of how you want to be able to execute an idea of yours, but to push your boundaries and showcase elements you probably didn't realize would be so striking can be so rewarding. To be able to see the rise of a notable designer is very inspirational and memorable, and that's what makes the evolution of Jacquemus supreme.