The Evolution Of Jacquemus (Part 2)

Women's fashion in France is notable for its effortless, chic, and simplistic aesthetic. Simon Porte Jacquemus has infused this aesthetic to express his version of the french woman, bringing the brand continuous success. From Simon’s first documented show all the way up to his Fall 2015 show, I personally noted a shift in designs and style. Each show has proven to be an upgrade from the one before, but in this particular show, followed by a handful of others succeeding it, the overall presentation of Jacquemus’ designs has reached another degree of chicness.

Fall 2015 featured an experimental myriad of designs, shapes, and colors all while barefoot. Opening with a semi-nude model, the show is a noticeable transition into the era of Jacquemus that we see today because of the increase in the clothing’s femininity when compared to Spring 2015. Nudity can be used to accentuate whatever design a model is wearing in a bold manner, but for the opening look, as well for the several semi-nude models throughout the runway, nudity was used to emphasize the exaggerated pants and skirts. Minimalism is a curation of simplistic designs, however simplistic can refer to the colors, the layers, or materials, not necessarily meaning you have to sacrifice one of these elements. In that regard, these structural pieces showed growth in how you can achieve a minimalist look without the garments being too simple.

When looking at pieces for this show and the growth in femininity it's easy to see the French influence in the designs. A key part of the cliche look of the modern French woman is to notice beauty in simplicity. Jacquemus, already being a minimalist brand has reached that step, but the subtle touches of how the look comes together helps complete the overall inspiration. Along with every semi-nude model and a handful of other models, Jacquemus experimented with plain face masks and face painting as well. Whether this was used to disguise the identity of the models or to guide focus to the clothes themselves; this was an interesting use of accessories, without actually using accessories. There was also a use of a glove as a top and then a glove dress for the closing designs.

For many of the designs, while the clothes complimented the body and the model, the color palette complimented the clothes themselves. The darker tones contrasted lighter tones, rather than bold simple beachy colors. The palette shift also reflects who these designs are intended for, it highlights where you can see someone wear these designs and what type of woman would want to be presented in them. In this collection, we can see a proper fusion of femininity and larger than body designs that make the outfits chic. I feel as though this show was a tease for what we would see on a Jacquemus runway today. The importance of this collection, as opposed to the previous ones, is shown through the brand’s maturity in its designs. We are exposed to different layers of clothing that not only accentuate how minimalism is more than a plain neutral design but also how it can be conveyed through many styles. Along with the maturity, this collection featured an increase of femininity that was achieved through its overall presentation and use of the models’ bodies. Compared to earlier shows we are able to see individual looks that come together in a cohesive way.

Both Spring and Fall 2016 featured a darker palette: experimental with a tease of avant-garde. They were reminiscent of his earlier collections, but with more thought and creativity. What I feel these two collections showcased is Simon’s ability to push his vision to the point where you wouldn't be able to tell the same designer created both of them. With suits being the main attraction of both shows, the designs were able to express a masculine, powerful side to how a woman can dress. Past dresses and skirts, France also has a huge influence in suit wear, so to see Jacquemus bring tailoring to life in a chic way, allows for the audience to see his overall growth in the fashion business. Audiences were also exposed to accessories such as shoes and purses. This was a huge marking for the designer considering, present-day, his accessories are synonymous with the brand. Spring and Fall 2016 highlighted the design potential and teased a manifold of how Jacquemus can dominate different styles and still incorporate his own touch to show the many versions of the modern French woman. Along with this remark, the simple yet bold approach continues to boast itself in all of the looks.

In Spring 2017 we returned to the lighter palettes, with even stronger accents and odes to the “french life”. This collection featured large sun hats, heels, and purses, which showed his expertise down to the very details. He transferred colors and bold shapes onto his accessories showing more focus to his personality and influences. The same things he was criticized for now became his personal markings. And this continues to make the brand stand out to this day. Later in the year, for Fall, the reoccurring dark theme returned creating a light pattern between these past 4 seasons. Showing that his designs have matured, both the collections for 2017, displayed the same aesthetic but in two different ways based on the season and its colors. Overall the designs became stronger and bold, while still maintaining their chicness. At the same time, the experimental looks now had a touch of femininity that complimented the modern french women.

Understanding Jacquemus’ evolution is important to how we see his runways today. His popularity grew with how well a woman can see herself in his designs. The earliest shows featured clothes that were just simple garments. But by the time we reach Fall 2015, we are exposed to literal styles that everyone can picture themselves in. His color palette expansion, as well as his use of materials, have grown into proper designs. His accessories are only the beginning of the brand’s iconic storyline and their sophistication hasn’t even peaked. Soon we await the ethereal designs of Spring 2018 and its continual success to present.

Photos: Courtesy of Vogue