Vaquera VS Palm Angels

It was our second day in New York, and we were mobbed up doing a little shopping. The squad, of course, hit Dover Street Market, one of my personal favorite spots, and while absorbed in the latest undercover collection WOWZA, unbeknownst to us, a beast was lurking preparing to pounce GRRRR.

The New York-based Vaquera was assembling a guerrilla couture production. After a frustrating season (oh brother) due to lackluster sales and poor financial management, the three-person team of Patric DiCaprio, Claire Sullivan, and Bryn Taubensee, was stretched too thin to supply the funds and resources needed for a show. After a PR Hail Mary, they scrambled to organize a small scale runway at Dover Street Market. Packed shoulder to shoulder, we watched as 18 looks stomped across the boutique floor.

Vaquera is crazy, but it’s focused. The looks stand united, clearly crafted from the accumulated disappointment and frustration. Models stepped out mean-mugging, most walking with an intense anxious stride. Colors were muted and dark, with most looks styled in deep greens or blacks. The stripes seen throughout the collection dawned a neutered red, keeping even the smallest hint of color subdued.

The lack of popping color and prints, usually Vaquera staples, took the show in a more mature direction. Without relying on the flash and flare of extravagant couture, Vaquera was able to draw its viewers into a humble storyline. Looks displayed models as exposed and vulnerable. Even though large silhouettes sprouted from their shoulders, front torso areas were tastefully left bare. Fall-Winter 20 showcased a modest Vaquera. Holding on to whatever they had left, the team put together a beautiful show backed by a powerful storyline.

Fall-Winter 2020 continued Vaquera’s habit of abstract and deconstructed silhouettes, forming a niche somewhere in between the chic grunge of 90’s McQueen, and the experimental tailoring of Comme des Garçons. They create their own identity though, by attracting those feeling alienated:

“Vaquera's mission is to unite and empower people who identify as outsiders through subverting standardized fashion codes.”

Less polished than the major fashion houses, but with a more focused audience, Vaquera is adopting grunge into a family of high-level couture. Clearly not a new concept, but they do it well and with vigor.

To avoid last season’s shortcomings (oh brother), FW 20 focused on marketability. A good portion of the collection was crafted ready to wear, featuring gorgeous knits and pants. Ahem, I predict 2020 will be a good year for them. Scrolling through their website I was able to get my greasy paws on some gorgeous denim, along with a couple of other favorites. Don’t let them settle for another low scale show guys! Everyone pitch in and we can help them replace Palm Angels in the next New York Fashion Week!

Photos: Phoenix Johnson / Courtesy of Vaquera